1913 Buffalo Nickel Value: Detailed Type 1 vs Type 2 Guide

The 1913 Buffalo Nickel is worth anywhere from $10 in heavily circulated condition to over $1,500 in high-grade mint state. As the very first year of this iconic American design, 1913 is uniquely famous for having two distinct “Types” that look slightly different but vary significantly in market demand and rarity.

How to Tell the Difference Between Type 1 and Type 2

If you’ve found a 1913 Buffalo Nickel, the first thing you must do is determine its “Type.” This can be done by looking at the reverse (the “tails” side) where the American Bison stands. If you are unsure and need a quick scan, using a free coin identifier app can help you zoom in on these specific details instantly.

On the Type 1 nickel, the buffalo is standing on a raised mound of dirt. The words “FIVE CENTS” are inscribed directly onto this raised mound. While beautiful, the Mint realized quickly that the mound was the highest point of the coin, causing the denomination to wear away almost immediately in commerce.

By late 1913, they redesigned the coin into what we call Type 2. On this version, the raised mound was flattened into a straight line or “recessed” area. The words “FIVE CENTS” were moved below this line into a protected area so they wouldn’t rub off. If you are tracking the 1913 Buffalo Nickel Type 1 premium prices, you’ll see that while it is more common, its historical significance as the “original” design keeps it highly sought after by beginners.

Understanding the Value of the 1913 Type 1 Buffalo Nickel

The Type 1 is generally the more common of the two varieties. Because the design was new and exciting, many people in 1913 saved them as souvenirs. For a modern collector, this means there are actually quite a few Type 1 nickels still in great condition. However, “common” doesn’t mean “cheap.” Even a worn specimen has a base value well above its five-cent face value.

For those using CoinKnow to organize their collection, you will find that the Philadelphia mint (no mint mark) produced over 30 million of these. If your coin has a “D” for Denver or an “S” for San Francisco under the “FIVE CENTS” text, the value jumps significantly. An “S” mint Type 1 in high grade can easily command several hundred dollars because their survival rate in pristine condition was much lower than the Philly issues.

Check the date clearly; if the date is missing, the value drops to almost nothing unless it’s a rare error. Because the date on Buffalo Nickels is also on a high point of the design, it is often the first thing to wear off. Preservation is everything when determining the final sales price at an auction or coin shop.

The Rarity and Value of the 1913 Type 2 Variety

The 1913 Type 2 is where the big money often starts. Because the U.S. Mint switched designs mid-year, the production window for the Type 2 was shorter for the branch mints. Collectors consider the Type 2 a more “legit” specimen for a long-term set because this design (the flat line) stayed the standard for the rest of the series until 1938.

Current market data for the 1913 Buffalo Nickel price trends shows that Type 2 coins carry a 50% to 100% premium over Type 1 coins in the same grade. A Denver-minted Type 2 is particularly prized. If you find a 1913-D Type 2 in your grandfather’s old cigar box, you could be looking at a coin worth $150 even if it looks a bit “dirty” or used.

Never clean your coins! Cleaning a 1913 Type 2 can strip away the natural patina and reduce its value by 50% or more. Serious collectors want the original surfaces. CoinKnow users often share photos of their finds to get feedback on whether a coin’s surface is original or “cleaned,” which is a vital distinction in the numismatic world.

Identifying Mint Marks on 1913 Nickels

Finding the mint mark is the next step after identifying the Type. Buffalo Nickels were minted in three locations: Philadelphia (no mint mark), Denver (D), and San Francisco (S). To find it, look at the reverse of the coin, specifically under the words “FIVE CENTS.”

For Type 1 coins, the “D” or “S” is located on the raised mound itself, right below the denomination. It is often quite small and can be obscured by dirt or wear. Using a magnifying glass or a scanning feature in CoinKnow is highly recommended to ensure you don’t mistake a Denver coin for a common Philadelphia one.

The 1913-S Type 2 is the “King” of the regular-issue 1913 nickels. Only about 1.2 million were minted. Compared to the 30 million Philadelphia Type 1s, it is incredibly rare. If your coin has that tiny “S” and a flat line under the buffalo, you have found a genuine treasure that justifies professional grading.

Grading Your 1913 Buffalo Nickel: What Condition is it?

Coin grading is the process of determining how much wear a coin has suffered. For 1913 Buffalo Nickels, the most important areas to check are the Indian’s cheekbone and the fur on the buffalo’s shoulder. If you see high details in the braid of the hair and the tail of the buffalo, your coin is likely in “Extremely Fine” or better condition.

“Good” (G-4) condition means the coin is very worn. The date should be readable, but the rim might be touching the letters. “Fine” (F-12) coins show more separation, and you can see a distinct line where the buffalo’s horn starts. “Mint State” (MS) coins have no wear at all and still possess the original “luster” or shine from when they were first struck.

Because the difference between a $50 coin and a $500 coin can often come down to a single grade point, many people choose to have their 1913 nickels authenticated by services like PCGS or NGC. Before spending money on grading, however, use home tools to estimate the value so you don’t spend $30 to grade a $15 coin.

Why the 1913 Redesign Happened So Quickly

You might wonder why the US Mint bothered to change the design just months after the nickel’s release. The answer is purely practical: money and durability. The Chief Engraver, Charles Barber, was not a fan of James Earle Fraser’s original Buffalo design because he felt the relief was too high for modern coin-counting machines.

More importantly, it became clear within weeks of circulation that the “FIVE CENTS” text on the raised mound would be completely unreadable after just a year or two of use. The government didn’t want a “headless” coin floating around. By flattening the ground, they created a protective “lip” for the text.

This historical quirk is why the 1913 year is so beloved. It represents a transition in American art—moving from the stiff, formal designs of the 19th century to the raw, rugged imagery of the American West. Finding both types is the goal of almost every “everyday” collector starting their journey.

FAQ

Q: Which 1913 Buffalo Nickel is the most valuable?

A: The most valuable regular-issue is usually the 1913-S Type 2. In high grades (Mint State 67), this coin can sell for over $20,000 at elite auctions. For most people, however, finding a 1913-S Type 2 in “Fine” condition worth $250 is the more realistic “holy grail.”

Q: Where is the mint mark on a 1913 Buffalo Nickel?

A: Look on the back (tails) of the coin. It is located directly under the “FIVE CENTS” text. If there is no letter there, it was made in Philadelphia. If there is a “D”, it’s Denver. if there is an “S”, it’s San Francisco.

Q: My 1913 Nickel has no date. Is it still worth money?

A: Buffalo nickels with “dateless” faces are usually only worth about 25 to 50 cents as “filler” coins. However, because 1913 has the unique Type 1 design, even a dateless Type 1 is clearly from 1913. These might sell for $1-$3 to people who want a cheap piece of history.

Q: Is there a 1913 “V” Nickel too?

A: Yes, but it is extremely rare! The “V” or Liberty Head Nickel was supposed to end in 1912, but five 1913 specimens were produced illegally/secretly. These are worth millions of dollars and are not the same as the Buffalo Nickels you find in common collections.